Men's Late Georgian Coat 1795-1810:
View A is single breasted with
only two buttons meant to be able to be buttoned. There are only three
seams in the entire coat body; one at center back and two at the side
backs. The sleeves are attached at the natural shoulder and are somewhat
long, with the cuffs extending to cover part of the hand. There are two
pleats at the back where the tails are attached to the back. The back tails
are not stitched to one another but instead overlap. The coat front is cut
rather severely back from the waist, a style left over from when men wore
swords. The bottom length is to the knee. The coat is fully lined with
silk lining in a matching or contrasting color. The upper center back lining
is the only piece that is made of muslin. The collar is a very high
standing collar with no fall. There are two tail pockets that are accessed
from the outside of the coat, and there are pointed flaps that cover the
access to the pockets. The sleeve has a simple cuff. View B differs from
View A at the front, cuff, pocket flap, and the collar. The front is double
breasted with a falling lapel and the fronts are not cut away as far to the
hem. The collar, also very high, has a stand and a fall. There is also a
different tail pocket flap with a simpler design than View A. The bottom
of the front o fView B has two cutting options: One is cut squarely away
from the front edge and the other has a rounded cut. The coat uses the
same fabric to line the fronts as the outer fashion fabric. The sleeve cuff
has a small overlap. The cuffs on the sleeves can be interchangeable and
there is a third cuff option that can be used on either coat, call the Mariner's
cuff. The back and the sleeves are the same for both Views.
1795ó1817 Menís Vest
This vest is designed to be worn under a coat, specifically Laughing Moon
124.This pattern is based on patterns published in 2 tailoring manuals from the
late 18th and early 19th century.
Specifically, those manuals are: The Taylor's Complete Guide (1796) and The
Taylor's Instructor (1809).
View A is double breasted, has wide lapels, wide pockets, and is cut straight
across the hem. View B is single breasted, has narrow lapels, wide pockets,
and is cut straight across the hem. View C is single breasted, has no lapels,
wide pockets, and is cut straight across the hem. View D is single breasted, has
no lapels and has large scalloped pocket flaps. All views have a very tall collar.
Fabric and Notions:
Vest Fashion Fabric: Wool, silk, linen, cotton, matelasse, embroidered
or woven motifs. Vest Lining: Natural linen or cotton
muslin. Optional Vest Interfacing: Medium weight linen. Collar
interfacing: Collar canvas. All Views Notions: 2í Linen Tape
View A notions: 12 5/8" buttons, either self covered or made of
natural material, such as bone or metal.
View B notions: 8 5/8" buttons, either self covered or made of
natural material , such as bone or metal.
View C & D notions: 10 5/8" buttons, either self covered or made
of natural material, such as bone or metal.
Optional: Fray check, 1/4 yard Fusible interfacing.